Closing words and summary

8 March 2011
This will (probably) be the last post on the blog.

I have really enjoyed this build, and I'm feeling a little restless now when it is finished, however, I will let the watch run fore a few weeks, then give it a final service, so that eventual unwanted wear can be detected and adjusted.



It all started with an experiment of getting a 6497 to run backwards, my intention at first, was not to go as far as making a complete watch. However, the steps came natural and soon I was on my way...

The project has been about rebuilding an existing movement, with as little manufacturing of new parts as possible, working with what I have. I feel successful with this aspect, the only thing I have had to make is a screw for the minute wheel, all other details are modified original parts from the 6497, the only extra parts I have needed is one setting lever, one sliding pinion and one winding stem, I have also needed three extra screws for the setting mechanism and two new jewels.

The watch is far from perfect, I regard the watch as a kind of prototype, a proof of concept. If I were to do it again I wouldn't change anything, even though there are different ways of solving the problems. Instead of having the setting mechanism on the movement side it can remain on the original dial side. This can be done by drilling a hole through the centre axis and having an extra axis pressed through, acting like an inverted canon pinion, which the minute hand can be mounted on and then having the minute and hour wheel on the movement side. But I liked the challenge of moving the setting mechanism, and I like the look of having it visible on the front side, and two crowns. Not many watches have the setting mechanism visible, almost only skeletonized watches without dials show this mechanism. And I must admit, it is a fascinating piece of mechanics, you pull the crown out, and the sliding pinion moves in on the same axis. For a watchmaker this is absolutely nothing spectacular, but someone who doesn't know so much about watches, really appreciates seeing this happening.

There is also the way of off-centering the dial, then the watch can run in its original direction, but that's cheating... And with that solution the sub second can't be used, the second hand will turn in the wrong direction.

One thing that I am thinking about, is the possibility of extending to a 6497 Flipp Automatic. This is very possible because there is nothing left on the old dial side. By making a new barrel arbor and rebuilding the winding mechanism again, I can take pretty much any automatic bridge and mount it on the old dial side, and adding weight to the rotor. There isn't room right now in the case, however, I am sure I can fit a domed crystal on the back side, to create more space. Maybe it won't be the most comfortable timepiece on the wrist, but extremely unique.

If I were to do this, I will continue on the blog, but not in the near future.

I was planning on having the back side engraved, but I will have to wait until I decide if I am going to continue with the automatic.

Works with a 24mm NATO-strap too.

On display with its big brother, my project from first year. Someone asked what was wrong with me, whay do I always want to have the regulator on the front side... Simply looks good!

For those of you who aren't familiar with blogs, the first posts are at the end, so scroll down to the bottom of the page and click on "older posts", do this twice and then work your way up. Or use the blog archive on the right side.

I would like to thank all readers for your time, hope you have enjoyed following the project, I certainly have!

Regards
Matthias

Complete assembling

4 March 2011
I received the new hands for the watch, I was very excited to see how it would all look.
I can't say that I am disappointed!

Final movement assembly

3 March 2011
A new Hirsch Liberty arrived for the watch, a very thick, Panerai-look leather strap. I think it will match the watch.



The final assembly of the movement went fine, The matt surfaces are tricky to work with. If you accidentally touch the surface you can't remove the stain with rodico, it sucks in to the structure and needs to be removed and washed. The only problem I had was a result of the sandblasting, if a thin metal detail is sandblasted it will extend on the blasted side, and bend, like hammering out a metal bowl. I knew this from experience, however, I have only seen this happening once, on a thin dial.
The same thing happened on my balance bridge, witch resulted in the balance being jammed, a lot! Because of that the bridge was bent by the extension on one side, I couldn't just bend it back. I had to work around the problem by adding a distance washer under the bridge, plus adjusting a few other things. The positive thing is that, because of the matt surface on the bridge, one can't see that it is bent by any surface reflection from the bridge. Another observation I made is that the balance bridge is actually lower than the gear train bridge and the barrel bridge, so even if I lifted the bridge up, it is not higher than the other bridges, and won't create any problems when i mount the movement in the case.

Finish

1 March 2011
I decided that I wanted most of the watch matt, so after sandblasting the bridges I started with the steel details. To obtain the right surface structure I used a coarse diamond powder, mixed it with oil, then pressed the details against a steel surface and with very small oscillating movements ground it until I got the right result. These parts will be blued, the effect of blued matt surfaces is that they look the same color from all angles.

This is an original polished click compared to my matt click.



Same with the crown wheel.

Black rhodinated main plate and bridges.

Counting a new hairspring.